There has been a lot of head-scratching about what luxury means right now, but Chris Leba has his own take: something both personal and lasting. On the surface, R13’s garments have a lot of flash, graphic appeal, and hype, but there is a lot of secret care and beauty built into each item. Take a camel coat, seemingly simple at first, but actually made from a Japanese textile that is camel hair on the exterior and soft cotton on the inside. As his customer wears it, the coat will soften and mold to their body.
That’s why Leba has, for the most part, stuck to the classics of American fashion for pre-fall. Denim and leather, both materials that improve with each wear, make up the core of his offering. There are also plenty of cotton tees with The Clash graphics, an obsession from Leba’s youth, and flannels that add a bit of soul. Styled together, it all might seem quite louche, but compared to R13’s previous runway outings the collection has an almost minimalist, essential tinge. Stripped of the styling and accessories, these are clothes that can have many lives.
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