Tie-dye never goes away, and nobody does it with as much sophisticated consistency as Massimo Alba. Even before he founded his brand in 2006 Alba was exploring the potential of garment dyeing techniques to add many-patinated dimensions to the surface of his garments. This collection included overdyed oxford shirting that had started blue but resurfaced as a strange and compelling green, robust cashmere pieces swirling with hand-scrunched patterns in dye, and a series of double-dye experiments on corduroy that gave this most textured of materials the depth of tone it merits and made each garment unique.
Soft-handled alpaca and almost felty yak knits further amplified a color story that reached full volume via a series of Alba’s habitual soft tailoring pieces crafted in a knowingly aggressive orange check and and a herringbone and windowpane whose green was just one step across from heathery to bilious.
New additions to the Alba conversation included a reversible tweed and quilted nylon jacket, and some fetching brushed and billows-pocketed shirting based on the attire of the Bergamo-born mountaineer-meets-philosopher Walter Bonatti. Returned was a fresh edition of Alba’s graphic handkerchiefs—sample exhortation: “Respond to every call that excites your spirit”—which this season were also transferred to a shirting capsule. Alba had teamed up with some of his neighbors in Milan’s laid-back Navigli district to produce a sweetly succinct short film. This displayed how finely these clothes fit this particular environment, while showing their potential to enhance the environment of any spirit who responds to the call for Alba’s brand of intensely flavorsome menswear.
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